If it is your first Cuban link chain, get 5 mm. It is visible from across a room without taking over your outfit, and it suits almost every build. Choose 2 mm if you want something quiet, or if a pendant is doing the talking. Choose 8 mm only if you actually want the chain to be the statement.
That is the answer most people need. What follows is the honest version: where each width works, where it does not, and what changes once you add a pendant or put a shirt over it.
Width is the decision, length is the detail
Length decides where a chain sits. Width decides how loud it is. Two men wearing the same 55 cm chain can look completely different depending on whether it is 2 mm or 8 mm across.
It also helps to know what the millimetre figure actually measures: the width of the flat face of the link as it lies against your skin, not the thickness front to back. A Cuban link is a twisted, flattened link, so it always reads slightly wider than a round link of the same measurement. In practice a 5 mm Cuban has more presence than a 5 mm rope or wheat chain.
The table
Neck sizes here are measured around the base of the neck: narrow is under 38 cm, average is 38 to 42 cm, broad is over 42 cm.
| Width | Narrow neck (under 38 cm) | Average neck (38–42 cm) | Broad neck (over 42 cm) | With a pendant | Under or over a shirt | Price |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2 mm (about 0.08 in) | Balanced and refined; the safest width here | Subtle, close-up detail rather than a statement | Reads thin; can look lost against a wide chest | Ideal — the pendant leads, the chain supports | Disappears under a shirt; best worn open-collar | €29 |
| 5 mm (about 0.20 in) | Noticeable but still in proportion | The sweet spot — seen from a distance, never loud | Clean and proportional; the everyday default | Works with small and medium pendants | Good over a T-shirt; visible outline under a shirt | €59 |
| 8 mm (about 0.31 in) | Heavy — tends to read as a collar | A deliberate statement; commits the whole outfit | Sits properly; this is the build it was drawn for | Only with a large pendant, otherwise unbalanced | Over clothing only; too bulky under a shirt | €79 |
2 mm: quiet, and not for everyone
A 2 mm chain is jewellery you notice at conversational distance and nowhere else. That is the point of it, and it is why it is the most-worn width among men who own exactly one chain.
Where it works: on a narrower frame, under an open collar, and as the base for a pendant. It is also the width to choose if you work somewhere jewellery is not really the done thing — it never announces itself.
Where it fails: on a broad chest with a T-shirt, where it can vanish into the fabric, and under a buttoned shirt, where you will not see it at all. If your plan is to wear a chain under your clothing and only reveal it occasionally, 2 mm is honest value at €29 — the 2 mm Cuban chain in silver tone (€29) is exactly that piece. If your plan is for people to see it, skip this width.
5 mm: the one most people should buy
Five millimetres is where a chain stops being a detail and becomes part of the outfit, without being the outfit. It has enough face to catch light across a room, and enough weight to hang properly instead of shifting around your collar all day.
It is also the most forgiving width. It works with a T-shirt, a jumper, an open shirt and a jacket. It works on a slim build and a heavy one. It takes a small or medium pendant without the two fighting each other. If you are ordering without seeing it in person, this is the width with the lowest chance of regret — the 5 mm Cuban chain in gold tone (€59) is our most-chosen piece for that reason.
One caveat: under a fitted shirt, 5 mm shows as an outline. Some men like that. If you do not, go down to 2 mm.
8 mm: be honest with yourself
An 8 mm Cuban is a statement piece and it should be treated as one. Worn well, it looks deliberate and expensive. Worn without thought, it looks like it is wearing you.
It works on a broad neck and chest, over plain clothing, in one metal tone with the rest of your jewellery. It works less well on a narrow frame, where the same chain sits high against the throat and reads as a collar rather than a necklace. It does not work under a shirt at all — you will feel every link against the fabric.
Two practical notes. First, an 8 mm chain hangs higher than a thinner one of the same nominal length, because the metal itself takes up space and the chain is stiffer. Add about 5 cm to the length you would normally choose. Second, it is heavier on the neck; most men adjust within a day, but it is not a chain you forget you are wearing. If you want that presence, the 8 mm Cuban chain in gold tone (€79) is the piece, and the 8 mm Cuban chain and bracelet set in gold tone (€99) is the cheaper way to get the matching wrist.
What a pendant changes
A pendant and a chain compete for the same attention. The wider the chain, the bigger the pendant has to be to hold its own — and past a certain point that combination stops looking like jewellery and starts looking like hardware.
The reliable ratio is simple: small chain, visible pendant. A 2 mm chain with a cross or a compass looks intentional. A 5 mm chain with a medium pendant still works. An 8 mm chain with a small pendant almost never does — the pendant reads as an afterthought hanging off a much bigger object.
What does not change with width
Durability. All three widths are built the same way: DeRuiterDR — men's jewellery in 316L surgical steel and 18K gold plating, waterproof, with a lifetime warranty, shipped from the Netherlands/Europe. A 2 mm chain is not more fragile in daily use than an 8 mm one; it is simply thinner. All three can go in the shower, the pool and the gym.
What does change is how a chain behaves during exercise. An 8 mm chain has real mass and will swing. If you train with your chain on, go narrower, go shorter, or take it off.
Still stuck between two widths?
- 2 or 5 mm: take 5 mm unless you are slim-built or buying it as a base for a pendant.
- 5 or 8 mm: take 5 mm unless you already own a chain and know you want more presence.
- Buying a first chain as a gift: 5 mm, every time. It is the width that fits the widest range of people.
Browse the chains collection and pick your width. If it reads differently on you than it did on screen, we exchange it free of charge — shipped from the Netherlands, so no customs charges inside the EU.
Frequently asked questions
What size Cuban link chain should I get?
5 mm for most men. It is visible without dominating, works with T-shirts and open shirts, and suits both slim and broad builds. Go to 2 mm for something subtle, or 8 mm if you want the chain to be the statement.
Is an 8 mm Cuban chain too big for everyday wear?
For most people, yes. It has genuine weight, it does not sit under a shirt, and it commits your whole outfit. It is a great second chain, but a demanding first one.
Which width works best with a pendant?
2 mm, or 5 mm for a medium pendant. The chain should support the pendant, not compete with it. A small pendant on an 8 mm chain almost always looks out of proportion.
Does a wider chain need a longer length?
Yes. An 8 mm chain sits roughly 5 cm higher than a 2 mm chain of the same stated length, because the metal takes up space and the chain is stiffer. Add about 5 cm when you move up to 8 mm.
Can I wear a Cuban chain under a shirt?
2 mm, comfortably. 5 mm will show as an outline through fitted fabric. 8 mm is not made for it — it is bulky against the chest and pushes the collar out.
Will a 5 mm chain look too thin on a broad frame?
No. 5 mm reads as proportional on broad necks and chests; it is the safest width across every build. Only 2 mm risks looking lost on a larger frame.
Can I shower and swim with these chains?
Yes, at every width. They are 316L surgical steel, some pieces plated in 18K gold, and waterproof — shower, pool and gym are all fine, and the lifetime warranty covers discolouration.
What is the difference between a Cuban link and a curb chain?
They share the same twisted, flattened link. "Cuban" usually describes the heavier, tighter version of that link, while "curb" is used for lighter variations. On the widths in this guide the terms are interchangeable.